It’s Saturday evening, and I’m seated at my own table at this small bar that’s served by only two wahudumu and an akaunta. At a table next to mine are three ladies, two of whom are very talkative.

With up to 300 beats per minute, singeli could be the world’s most frenetic music. In Dar es Salaam, its creators explain how it helps to create a better life On a neon-lit jetty overlooking the River ...